SOUTHERN GOLD FIELDS

BLOG 8 SOUTHERN GOLDFIELDS
After leaving Kalgoorlie on the 3rd April, 236klms north was the small goldfields town of Menzies. During our morning coffee break along the way we heard the roar of motor cycles. When we looked out there was a large group of them stopping for a break. They were from Kalgoorlie and on their way to Menzies just for lunch. Only a 236klm Sunday ride. On arriving we booked into the caravan park, which was only about 6mnths old. No trees or shrubs, just concrete slabs, and dirt, with demountable amenities. All very clean. The visitors centre, which doubles as post office, bank, and office for caravan park along with a few other things is one of three buildings operating in the town. The other 2 being, the Town Hall and The Menzies Hotel. A couple of days before our arrival there was a roadhouse, but closed unexpectedly leaving the town with no fuel and other supplies. We had an evening meal the first night at the Hotel and of course met some locals as well as the publican, Dave and his wife Bev. and Tamaya helping out in the bar for a few days. Dave has plans to make the back section of the hotel available to self-sufficient travellers for $5.00 per night. We were offered to be his first customers the next night. Although we had planned to do just that, our new neighbours in the park were off to go prospecting and offered to take us along and help get D’Arcy started with his detector. We took up the offer and so stayed another night in the park. Our third night was spent behind the Hotel, before Dave had started the work on the site. We left Menzies with a lot more knowledge about gold detecting and having made some new friends.
Niagara Dam, approx. 50klms. north was our stay for 1 night. We were able to have our first outside fire for a long time and D’Arcy caught some yabbies in the dam, which we stir fried a couple of nights later. A good stopover for travellers, except we needed to wear our fly nets. They were pretty bad!!!!!! Although we didn’t have to use it, the area also had a dump point for black water disposal. Another couple of Queensland travellers in their 5th wheeler was Rex & Loma who we spent another night parked up at our next stop, Kookynie, a Living Ghost Town.
In 1907 Kookynie, (pronounced Koo-ki-nee)had a population of 3,500-yet 100yrs later fewer than 20 people lived there. Once upon a time the town had 11 hotels, seven of which were licenced, a host of businesses, a Town Hall, which housed the regular Saturday night dances as well as plays and official ceremonies, the first public swimming bath on the goldfields, seven brass bands to entertain the population, The Kookynie Turf Club, which had 3 annual meetings, a recreation area used by footballers, cricketers and bicycle racers and its own brewery and 2 soft drink manufacturers! The Grand Hotel still remains, the only public building and still operates providing accommodation, meals, fuel, supplies and caravan and camping facifities. Although Rex & Loma as well as ourselves were the only ones to stay outback where we could find a power point, but no water, we did have a really good steak meal and learnt a bit about the Hotel and “town”.
A little further north was Leonora and the Historic Township of Gwalia. The Leonora Caravan Park was also a recommended stay. Very well maintained with lovely hospitality. John Forrest’s party camped near Mt. Leonara in 1869 during his search for the lost Leichardt expedition. 25yrs later, prospectors moved throughout the area. By 1896 the 1st claims were pegged at Leonora by Edward Sullivan at the Johannesburg Lease. Mining around Leonora and Gwalia commenced soon after. It was the Sons of Gwalia leases west of Leonora that were to shape the area for the next 70yrs. This mine ran continuously for 67yrs. 65 of those under the same company whose 1st manager was Herbert Hoover. (later to become the 31st US President) Leonora continues as a service centre for mining and exploration as well as the pastoral industry. Mining and prospecting for gold and other minerals is still a major activity in the area. Renewed activity by larger mining companies has led to the opening of leases that have been unworked for many years. New open pit mines and treatment plants have been established in these areas. A visit to the old township of Gwalia was just amazing. Included in the Museum is Hoover House, where Herbert Hoover lived during his time working in the Mining Industry. The old home today has been restored and is used for a B & B. Gwalia is a ghost town. The Sons of Gwalia Mine was a major part of the lives of the people of Leonora-Gwalia supporting a population of 3,0000 in 1911. Gwalia became a ghost town overnight, when on the 21st December, 1963 the Sons of Gwalia Mine closed up shop for good. Trains were dispatched from Kalgoorlie, 230klm south and the people virtually walked away taking with them only what they could carry. In a period of only 3 weeks the population went from 1500 to 40.