6th-11th APRIL -COOBER PEDY

6th-11th APRIL 2010

COOBER PEDY
After departing Pt. Augusta on the 5th April still heading north on the Stuart H’Way we made a stop at Woomera,(172klms) where 25klms south of Woomera in the 1960’s NASA operated a deep space tracking station. The Woomera Prohibited Area is the largest land-based missile and rocket range in the western world. We passed large salt lakes, but because of good rain falls over the summer period they had lots of water, but still quite spectacular. We free camped that night at Mulga Well Rest Area (512) after travelling 312klms for the day, including sightseeing.
Arrived Coober Pedy 6th April we booked into the Oasis Tourist Park. Approaching this very unusual town was quite a surprise. As it is the largest supplier of opals in the world, (80%) there is many many mounds of dirt that just looks like millions of large ant hills. These were created when prospectors dug test holes looking for opal by sinking or digging a shaft then tunnelling along the level with a pick & shovel. If it was found a claim for the sight was made and they continued drilling and digging. Coober Pedy was originally known as the Stuart Range Opal Field, named after John McDouall Stuart, who in 1858 was the first European explorer in the area. In 1920 it was renamed Coober Pedy, from Aboriginal words “kupa piti”, commonly assumed to mean “white man in a hole” To-day a large percentage of the towns population of 3500, live underground in what they call “dugouts”. No commercial companys are permitted to mine in the area. Only private people. The township offers all the facilities expected in a large country town. Although first impressions weren’t so good, not the tidiest town, we did manage to do & see quite a bit. Our first venture was to take a town tour. We find that this is a good way to see what places are all about. Our tour included The Desert Cave Hotel, a 4star hotel built above & below ground, Umoona Opal Mine & Museum, containing an original opal mine, underground house, panoramic theatre and opal retailing shop & showroom, an underground church, even a golf course that has not one blade of grass and black putting surfaces. Noodling is a process of searching through heaps of discarded mullock for pieces of opal missed by the miners. Many of the locals make a living off this method and popular with the tourists. We did have a brief go, but didn’t find our fortune.
Another of our highlights was to do the outback mail run, a 12hr day travelling with the Outback Mail Man, Peter Rowe, delivering mail to historic Oodnadatta, William Creek and remote cattle stations.A distance of approx. 600klms. After leaving Coober Pedy about 9.00am. and travelling through the world’s longest manmade structure, the Dingo Fence, (longer than the Great Wall of China) , stopping to view the old Ghan Railway Line and following up the famous Oodnadatta Track which follows the old aboriginal trading route, the foot steps of explorer John McDouall Stuart, and the historic Overland Telegraph Line we made our first mail stop at Mount Berry Station then it was on to Oodnadatta for lunch. Nothing much there but the Pink Roadhouse and a small community. The town also became famous for its teams of Afghan cameleers who loaded mail, freight and travellers for transportation north to places such as Alice Springs. Because they have had quite a lot of rain in the area some tracks into staions were not passable so station hands had to drive to the main road to pick up their mail. On the way to William Creek, even though the vehicle was an all terrain 4WD it was impossible to carry on while towing a trailer (with the mail) so Peter decided to unhook and leave it there where he would get someone from a nearby station to collect it. The remainder of the mail was put in the bus. By the time we reached William Creek it was dark and time for dinner at the Pub. Again not much else there either, but a lot of history.
Due to the bad track conditions we arrived back in Coober Pedy at 10.30pm. and had a wonderful, informed history lesson from our driver Peter Rowe. I would describe him as a “walking encyclopedia”
Another of our highlights was to take a scenic flight over Lake Eyre with “Opal Air Pty Ltd”. Due to rains coming down from Queensland Lake Eyre is expected to look very spectacular which hasn’t been seen for years. I think we may have been a few weeks ahead of time because the wild life hadn’t arrived and the lake was expected to have more water, but we still enjoyed it, landing again at William Creek for refreshments. On the return we passed over the Roxby Mine, mining for gold and the Painted Hills. Quite spectacular.
After 5 nights in Coober Pedy it was time to move on.

1ST APRIL-5TH APRIL (EASTER)

PT. AUGUSTA
Thursday morning and by 8.50a.m. we were on the road from Broken Hill to Pt. Augusta. Leaving NSW. and 43k to the SA border along the Barrier H’Way. Once over the border the scenery took on a different look. It was quite obvious that it hadn’t rained much as the country side was quite dry. As you go into different areas and states there is quarantine restrictions on fruit, veges, plants etc. Although we were aware of the fruit restrictions, didn’t know about plants. As I have been nurturing and caring for my potted parsley it was growing just lovely, only to have it confiscated by the authorities 200klms into SA. We only thought it was fruit that was not allowed. Not Happy Jan!!!!!!! A good lesson learnt. Read the book before hand.
Our night stop was by 4.00pm at rest area 304, 80klms. SE of Pt. Augusta, after a 330klm. day.
Friday, (Good Friday) 2nd April arrived 10.30am at Shorline Caravan Park on the edge of the Spencer Gulf, Pt. Augusta. Because everything was closed for the holiday it was a good time to drive around town to see where things were. The Wadlata Outback Centre is a must see. Experience the “Tunnel Of Time” takes 1-2hrs, but well worth it. Interactive displays will take you back to when dinosaurs roamed the land and learn what this land means to our aboriginal people. A 3 screen theatre shows the hardships of our explorers and early settlers. The G’Day Mate theatre introduces you to the real people of the outback & makes you want to get out there and do it. Good for us, as this is what we are doing. Thank goodness for all those explorers who have made this possible for us today.
The Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden is another interesting visit. With a garden cafe and gift shop it was a good place for a cool drink or coffee. The Mathew Flinders lookout area provides stunning views of the Flinders Ranges and the tip of Spencer Gulf.
Sunday and daylight saving is finished. Good to wake up with the sun coming up. Such a beautiful day we decided to go kayaking before breakfast. Just so beautiful, the water was like glass. Darren, you would have loved to barefoot ski here.
Tomorrow, Mon. 5th April we are on the road to Coober Pedy.

25TH - 31ST MARCH 2010

Wentworth To Broken Hill

Before leaving Wentworth, which is a lovely clean country town, we visited the Old Wentworth Gaol (that is how it was spelt back then) which was built in 1881 to house law breakers. Their local Wentworth Club is well appointed where we had an evening meal. Only walking distance from the caravan park, which is on the banks of the Darling River. Because we arrived early in the day it was possible to go sightseeing. It was great to witness the flowing of the waters from the Darling River and Murray Rivers. The area has not seen such vast amounts of water for years due to the recent rains coming down from Queensland and they say there is more to come. Wentworth is the junction of the Darling & Murray Rivers.
We then continued north on the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill, 265klms. Aprox. Half way is a roadhouse at Coombah where we stopped for fuel and decided to break the trip and stay for the night. June who runs the roadhouse cooked us a very good meal and we enjoyed her company for the evening.
Only a short run of 125klms to Broken Hill where we stayed in the Broken Hill City Caravan Park. Because of the recent rains the country side is lush and green. A vast difference from our tripping last year throughout Queensland because of drought. We were quite surprised at the size of Broken Hill known as The Silver City. I could go on and on about the history and sights of Broken Hill and it surrounds, but just to make it short we drove 23klms north to Silverton, where it all began for the mining of silver. Now just for tourism and the making of many movies over the years including Mad Max, where the original car still sits outside the Silverton Hotel. Lots of memorabilia on the inside walls. A great place for artists to display their works in a couple of museums. At the back of the hotel we spotted 6 helicoptors which had dropped in. Apparently a little unusual. Maybe a gettogether for the local station owners.
Broken Hill was the home of famous Australian artist, Pro Hart, where is widow still now lives. We took a guided tour of the city to start with to get the feel of it, which was very good and informative. Had the pleasure of sighting the native flower Sturt Pea which is just beautiful.
Also 110klms to the SE of the city is the Menindee Lakes. We took a picnic lunch and went to sight the lakes where there are 7 in all. Menindee being the largest all fed by the Darling River. All but the Menindee Lake were full and they say that it will not be long before it is full also. They haven’t seen them with water in for 9 years. Unfortunately our picnic lunch was eaten in the truck, due to the flies. We now have nets on our hats. A must for the outback.
Broken Hill is a mecca for art galleries and local artists. The Silver City Mint & Art Centre is home to the “Big Picture”. the largest painting on canvas, 100 metres long and over 12 metres high and painted with 9 tonne of paint. It is held in place by hydraulics, pulleys and counter weights. Unfortunately we couldn’t take photos of it. It took over 2yrs to paint and features natural and manmade landmarks within 300klms of Broken Hill.
Of course we always are meeting lovely people and one such couple, Robyn & Tony, who were from the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, decided to have dinner at the Musicians Club. The courtesy bus delivered us back to the park after an enjoyable night.
A memorial stands on top of an old mine for all the miners killed in the area since the early 1900’s. It is quite easy to spend a week in Broken Hill. There were still sights we didn’t get to see as it was time to move on.